GREEN 72 FASTBACK (FORMER 429/460)

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Guys,

I have run a 650 cfm quick fuel carb on my cleveland in the Model A for many years. It made a drastic improvement over the holley avenger I had on it originally. Technical help is always only a phone call away with them.

I would recommend them !!!

Thanks, Jay
I am running an 850 quick fuel on my 408 Cleveland and love it!! I don't have a kickdown or a choke on mine, but I don't use those anyhow LOL!

 
Well had a great day yesterday..Motor..tranny..headers all installed..went pretty smooth except for one bolt hole in the right side header I had to massage a bit.

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Well had a great day yesterday..Motor..tranny..headers all installed..went pretty smooth except for one bolt hole in the right side header I had to massage a bit.
Finally getting some good weather around here;)
It's about time ! But for how long who knows ?



Looking GREAT! Exciting times at Scott's house. What rear gear are you using (or plan to use)?
Thanks D..Yes finally ..there are 3:25's in it now but we shall see.. probably going to bump that to 3:50's at some point..

 
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Looking GREAT! Exciting times at Scott's house. What rear gear are you using (or plan to use)?
Thanks D..Yes finally ..there are 3:25's in it now but we shall see.. probably going to bump that to 3:50's at some point..
Of all the ratios out there I think the 3.50 would be the best and 3.25 would be second best for a street driven car. Obviously you'll have more quickness with the 3.50.

I eagerly wonder about the 3.25s and the amount of power you'll have at 60mph in 4th gear. RPMs would be in the 1750 neighborhood. I personally think you'll be just fine. Once you get it running this will be a great setup to see how well the 4v does at low rpm, without downshifting in our cars. This may very well hush the "those 4-Vs don't have any low end torque" crowd. ;)

I am very excited about your engine build. This is exactly the recipe I would have followed.

 
Scott, or anyone, I have a lift plate like that that bolts to the intake to lift the motor in. I have been worried about the weight of the engine and transmission hanging on those smaller carb bolts. Obviously you did it, so I guess I have nothing to worry about. I would rather use that, then put the lift tabs on the heads, that way I can go ahead and install my dress up valve covers, and not scratch them up.

 
Scott, or anyone, I have a lift plate like that that bolts to the intake to lift the motor in. I have been worried about the weight of the engine and transmission hanging on those smaller carb bolts. Obviously you did it, so I guess I have nothing to worry about. I would rather use that, then put the lift tabs on the heads, that way I can go ahead and install my dress up valve covers, and not scratch them up.
Conservatively, if we say those are 1/4-20 bolts, each bolt (assuming they're grade 5 hardware, I wouldn't lift with less) will generate a clamp load of 2000 lbs with a proof load of 85,000 psi. You'll more than likely rip through the top of your lift plate before you blow a bolt off. In fact I think mustang monthly did an article on this just recently.

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Scott, or anyone, I have a lift plate like that that bolts to the intake to lift the motor in. I have been worried about the weight of the engine and transmission hanging on those smaller carb bolts. Obviously you did it, so I guess I have nothing to worry about. I would rather use that, then put the lift tabs on the heads, that way I can go ahead and install my dress up valve covers, and not scratch them up.
Conservatively, if we say those are 1/4-20 bolts, each bolt (assuming they're grade 5 hardware, I wouldn't lift with less) will generate a clamp load of 2000 lbs with a proof load of 85,000 psi. You'll more than likely rip through the top of your lift plate before you blow a bolt off. In fact I think mustang monthly did an article on this just recently.
+1 I agree. I have used the same plate many many times before with installing motor and trans together. Makes it a lot easier to tilt the engine and trans as it goes in when its hanging on one point like that. I have used a chain bolted to the heads and its easy to crush and brake stuff like that. Use the plate and don't worry about it!

Also Looking great Scott!!!! Keep up the good work man!

 
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Been pecking away at stuff here & there..I tried to save a few hours work by buying the aod crossmember..No go won't fit with 4r70w..So I had to mod the Crities 429 c-6 crossmember I had..just a note... that crossmember is MUCH thicker stronger than a stock one I'm glad I had that to work with vs a stock one..came out real nice & there was no need to modify the isolater..The former driveshaft isn't going to work..It needs to lengthened..Or I may have to buy a new one..will know tomorrow..Working on redoing every single connector the p.o. did in the engine bay..you can see a before picture & after with my finger pointing to the last one of the p.o.'s connecters I have left to replace in the distribution box..You can see the difference in my work every single one is soldered & then double shrink tubed.

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Finished up the wiring in the engine bay..Big Job...redid the entire trunk mount battery setup...Rad is mounted..waiting on the last few parts (spark plug wires.. looms..hoses..some sender fittings) & the most important the new drive shaft..can't fire it till I have that ..I hope within 2 weeks to have it. Everything works, it cranks..fans..horns..tach ..etc.

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