MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)

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More driving today. It feels so good to be back driving this car. Window down and just the sound of the roaring engine. I even forgot I can play music in the car stereo. It is hard to control not to do hard launches and spin those tires.

I did some modifications to the brakes and still brakes like an old car (Wilwood fronts, generic GM rear discs, new lines, Wilwood master, and vacuum pump). I can lock the rears but not the fronts.

 
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Will anyone know if I can adjust the passenger door without removing the fender? You really need to push it for it to completely close. You can see that once it it is close it raises about 1/8" and it looks well aligned wit the rest of the lines. At this point I am not looking for perfection but rather have it close a little more smoothly.

 
If its raising an 1/8" on the striker when you are closing it, I would check your hinge bushings. If they are slightly worn that could cause the door to sag slightly at the rear and raise up onto the striker when closed.

 
If its raising an 1/8" on the striker when you are closing it, I would check your hinge bushings. If they are slightly worn that could cause the door to sag slightly at the rear and raise up onto the striker when closed.
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How do I check them? looking for up and down play at the end of the door when open?

I should have tackled that when I had the fender off last year. I don't foresee a way to fix it without removing the fender, which I hate.

 
open the door fully and try to lift the back of door up and down. If the bushings are bad, you will feel the door move and should be able to see play in the pins of the hinges. Yes , it would be wise to remove the fender to keep from damaging the paint.

 
open the door fully and try to lift the back of door up and down. If the bushings are bad, you will feel the door move and should be able to see play in the pins of the hinges.  Yes , it would be wise to remove the fender to keep from damaging the paint.
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So am I looking at four of these? https://www.cjponyparts.com/door-hinge-pin-kit-1965-1973/p/HW468/http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Body/Door-Components/Door-Hinges/Door-Hinge-Pin-Bushing-Repair-Kit-1967-1973-Mustang-Cougar.axd

 
open the door fully and try to lift the back of door up and down. If the bushings are bad, you will feel the door move and should be able to see play in the pins of the hinges.  Yes , it would be wise to remove the fender to keep from damaging the paint.
Click to expand...
So am I looking at four of these? https://www.cjponyparts.com/door-hinge-pin-kit-1965-1973/p/HW468/[/URL]http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Body/Door-Components/Door-Hinges/Door-Hinge-Pin-Bushing-Repair-Kit-1967-1973-Mustang-Cougar.axd
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I am sure Don @ Ohio Mustang does those

 
For those readers that may have a Retrosound stereo. I installed mine a few years ago but I always had this nagging issue that I couldn't play USB music when the car was on. All pointed out to electronic interference so I didn't do much troubleshooting because I knew my spark plug wires were old. Fast forward two years and I finally replaced the wires with Accels's 8mm. The problem persisted so I just tried a simple test. Since the USB cable was long I had coiled it behind the radio. I uncoiled it and run it on the floor along the console away from any other wires. That simple solution did it. It was working with no problems. I then run it between the console and the carpet and it worked great. The key is not to run the USB cable next to any other wires. It was very close to the antenna wire so that may have been the culprit. As an added measure I clipped one of those ferrite RFI suppression filters to the USB cable. I also clipped one to the the positive wire to the radio. This is one more issue scratched off the list.

 
Making a small neat coil of excess wire can have unintended consequences, especially when it is next to steel or iron. Having several individual insulated strands of wire in the cable, whether the cable is shielded or not, adds to the unknown consequences. The coil of cable forms what is called an inductor (also called a choke). Inductors are used to smooth out electrical waveforms in a circuit, and can completely block audio signals, as well as other frequencies. The RFI filter you added to it is also a type of inductor, so if your stereo seems to lack bass or high frequencies you might want to try removing it, see if it helps or not.

 
Making a small neat coil of excess wire can have unintended consequences, especially when it is next to steel or iron. Having several individual insulated strands of wire in the cable, whether the cable is shielded or not, adds to the unknown consequences. The coil of cable forms what is called an inductor (also called a choke). Inductors are used to smooth out electrical waveforms in a circuit, and can completely block audio signals, as well as other frequencies. The RFI filter you added to it is also a type of inductor, so if your stereo seems to lack bass or high frequencies you might want to try removing it, see if it helps or not.
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Interesting point that you bring up here with the coil of excess wire. In this case it was a USB wire that I can't cut and patch. In other cases, if you didn't want to cut it, what would be the best way to deal with excess wire. I have couple places in the car where I have coiled excess wire and now I am thinking about it.

 
Making a small neat coil of excess wire can have unintended consequences, especially when it is next to steel or iron. Having several individual insulated strands of wire in the cable, whether the cable is shielded or not, adds to the unknown consequences. The coil of cable forms what is called an inductor (also called a choke). Inductors are used to smooth out electrical waveforms in a circuit, and can completely block audio signals, as well as other frequencies. The RFI filter you added to it is also a type of inductor, so if your stereo seems to lack bass or high frequencies you might want to try removing it, see if it helps or not.
Click to expand...
In regards to the RFI filter and loss of bass, since the filter is in the USB cable which is passing a digital signal, it shouldn't affect sound quality, right?

 
Installed this back up camera:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M260I3Z/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: the link is not working anymore. The camera is an AUTOVOX T1400W

Good overall and easy installation. Did not have to drill a hole or cut any wires. The only issue is that the mirror vibrates more than I would prefer. I am working on trying to improve this issue.

Some may not like the look of the double mirror, but you can't really notice unless you look from the side. Most people won't even notice.





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Update on this Backup Camera. Since the backup camera mirror attaches to the current mirror it increases the weight by a good amount, which results in vibration and the mirror button coming off the windshield. I tried gluing the button with all kind of different products with no success. After the fourth time I decided it was time to move on :shootself: . Now I am trying the same Auto-Vox camera but with its own mirror that glues to the windshield. It is the upgrade of the one I had installed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J863EI2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was able to use the camera and wires already installed. I just replaced the transmitter with the new one and all is working well. Since it is lighter let's see if it will stay attached to the windshield and hopefully reduce the vibrations. 

I don't want to give up the idea of having the backup camera in the rearview mirror. I think it is practical and I have been using it all the time.

 
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So the project these past two weeks was to improve audio. I have a Retrosound Hermosa player, with a Retrosound dashpad speaker and 6x9 Kicker speakers in the back. The Kickers are great speakers but because I have a fold down rear seat I am using portable enclosures that are not that large, which doesn't take advantage of the Kicker's bass potential. The dashpad speaker is 4x6 and with zero bass. The sound in the front is terrible and to take advantage of the rears I have to raise the volume way too much to my like. I realized that I needed to add a subwoofer in the front. Didn't want to crowd the behind rear seat area much more than the two current speaker enclosures. I found that the only space I could see open in the front to fit a sub was on the passenger side's kick panel, tucked behind the kick panel and the vent box. The space is small and after searching through many options and sizes I decided on the Kenwood KSC-SW11. This is an enclosed self powered 5x8 sub. I was not expecting to have a huge boooom coming out of it, but just some good bass to fill what's lacking from the dashpad speakers. I didn't want to add door speakers either. It was a tight cramped fit, but it went well. The only mod was to customize the supplied mounting plate and drilling two holes for screws and one hole to get the wiring to the battery. The sub is well hidden. It am very impressed with the sound and power. I am using it with the sub volume at about 25-35% and fills the missing bass perfectly. I am very happy with the investment and fit.

Edit PS: I have since upgraded to 6"x8" 46CSC684 Kicker speakers at the doors: https://7173mustangs.com/threads/door-speaker-replacement.25136/page-3#post-358045

Before putting on the panel:



After the panel:

 
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