Steering/ Wheel Questions

[RadRacer203]

I decided I definitely need my power steering box rebuilt or replaced. It's just getting a little too scary on the highway and I'm planning to go to Colorado this summer in it (6000 mile round trip). Any recommendations for companies that can hook me up? It's got the original Saginaw box and I'd like either keep it stock or at least close enough that it'll just bolt straight up.

I'd also like to replace the rag joint since I think it's getting a little worn. Anything special I should look for? Or just whatever's cheapest?

My third question is about the set of wheels I got recently. They're that old style that has the slotted holes for multiple bolt patterns, and they had sort of oblong or oval shaped washers to set the bolt pattern. I can't for the life of me figure out what those washers might be called or where to get them. Any ideas?

 

[73pony]

powersteering.com did the rebuild on my box. Did a fantastic job. I also had mine converted to a quick ratio at the same time. I think it was around $300 total but I was able to keep the original box that goes to my car and I sent with a new pitman arm and my old one still attached. They indexed and removed the old one and installed the new one before sending back to me. I am extremely happy with the work they did.

 

[Bentworker]

You could do the box yourself if you wanted a project. I have done several with good results. If it is something that you might consider let me know and I'll post some info.

The rag joint is a bit of a pain. Everyone seems to agree that the Scott Drake rag joint is better suited as a fishing weight. The pins on it are too short to couple with the slots on the steering shaft if the rag joint was to fail. The mustang rag joint is kind of an oddball since I think one of the pins is 5/16" and the other is 9/16" in diamerer. You could get a bolt together kit for the rag joint that comes with a new disk and go that route. I don't believe anyone is making a correct replacement that actually works.

 

[RadRacer203]

I'm a little hesitant to try rebuilding it myself because I've heard from some people these boxes can be pretty finicky, and I really don't have much time to do it. I'd rather pay and know 100% that it's going to work. I'll check out powersteering.com for sure and see what they think.

As for the rag joint, are there any options other than the crappy rubber ones? Like poly or something like that? Or maybe I could swap it out for something else entirely?

 

[Don C]

Here is a thread that may help you.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-steering-wheel-play-how-can-i-lose-it

You can find more by searching the forum.

 

[mudbilly]

I also had mine converted to a quick ratio at the same time.

+ 1 ^

I don't remember who re-built mine, but this upgrade makes it steer like a modern car.

 

[RadRacer203]

I think I'm leaning towards the quick ratio, but I like the slow steering because it feels like an old car. I don't really want it to feel like a new car. Maybe just slightly quicker.

Don, that thread was good, but he never said what the solution was. I'm definitely suspecting the rag joint is part of the problem. The entire front end of my car is pretty much new and it was aligned this past summer so I'm pretty sure none of that is part of the problem.

 

[73pony]

I think I'm leaning towards the quick ratio, but I like the slow steering because it feels like an old car. I don't really want it to feel like a new car. Maybe just slightly quicker.

Don, that thread was good, but he never said what the solution was. I'm definitely suspecting the rag joint is part of the problem. The entire front end of my car is pretty much new and it was aligned this past summer so I'm pretty sure none of that is part of the problem.

The quick ratio is prob the single best upgrade I have done to my car. On the rag joint here is what I did. The “help” section kits don’t have great rubber and the Scott drake metal part is junk but the rubber is the good nylon reinforced rubber joint. I purchased the Scott drake and rebuilt mine using the rubber from that and new hardware.

 

[nailpounder]

try oreillys auto  125$ +35$ core life time i think

 

[Bentworker]

The least horrible off the shelf rag joint in my opinion is a Lares 201. I too agree that the rubber disk in the “help” brand kit is pretty horrible.

It is quality, has the correct spline count (13/16”x36 or 31 depending on if you count the splines on the flat). The only bad thing about it is the pin diameter does not match the original 9/16 - 5/16”

And a shameless plug if you decide to rebuild your own... https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-playing-with-steering-boxes-spa-s-fixed-ratio-spa-af-variable-ratio-firebird-12-7

 

[RadRacer203]

Ok, I think I'll try that Lares rag joint first. If that doesn't work out, I'll go with the Scott Drake one. I'm definitely not rebuilding my own box, with school and everything going on, I'm not going to have time before the summer, and I want to get it back on the road as soon as the salt comes off. I think I'll call powersteering.com and see what they think.

 

[Bentworker]

Ok, I think I'll try that Lares rag joint first. If that doesn't work out, I'll go with the Scott Drake one. I'm definitely not rebuilding my own box, with school and everything going on, I'm not going to have time before the summer, and I want to get it back on the road as soon as the salt comes off. I think I'll call powersteering.com and see what they think.

http://leepowersteering.com/custom-rebuilds-and-upgrades/

Above is another option for a rebuilder.

 

[mustang7173]

All,

Scott Drake makes one. All though I questions it fit since mentions 71-73 Mustang M/S. I did find the Lares rag joint from Advanced Auto.



Source: NPD CR: 2018



Source: Ford Motor Co. Master Parts Cat. CR: may 1975



Source: Advanced Auto CR: 2018

 

[73pony]

OK. So I have purchased both the Lars and Scott Drake.

The Scott Drake has pins that are too short (making using this unit pointless and dangerous) but has a quality rubber piece

The lars has the correct pin length but they are both the skinny pin instead of one being larger and the rubber piece is less than stellar.

 

[Bentworker]

OK. So I have purchased both the Lars and Scott Drake.

The Scott Drake has pins that are too short (making using this unit pointless and dangerous) but has a quality rubber piece

The lars has the correct pin length but they are both the skinny pin instead of one being larger and the rubber piece is less than stellar.

I'd argue that the Lars disk is pretty good.  It is impregnated with several layers of some sort of metal mesh.  

Below is a pic for future folks to show the pin length difference.  In the pic there are actually three 9/16" dia OEM length pins.  There are two more to the left of the "OEM LENGTH" arrow. 

 

 

[73pony]

OK. So I have purchased both the Lars and Scott Drake.

The Scott Drake has pins that are too short (making using this unit pointless and dangerous) but has a quality rubber piece

The lars has the correct pin length but they are both the skinny pin instead of one being larger and the rubber piece is less than stellar.

I'd argue that the Lars disk is pretty good.  It is impregnated with several layers of some sort of metal mesh.  

Below is a pic for future folks to show the pin length difference.  In the pic there are actually three 9/16" dia OEM length pins.  There are two more to the left of the "OEM LENGTH" arrow. 

 

You must have got a different version of the Lars than what I did. Mine was just plain rubber disc in the Lars.

 

[Bentworker]

Weird,

The Lars coupler I got last year was pretty good. It had steel mesh cast into the rubber. It wasnt really apparent unless you took a knife to it or took it apart.

 

[Stanglover]

Don C referred to a year old post by myself. While I now have another issue with my rebuilt box, an SPA-T variable ratio, meaning it has to go back to the shop for a second rebuild, but that's another story, my comment here is that the Lares 201 is by far the best replacement I found for the rag joint. The rubber disc is reinforced, no worries there. I did have to tap in on the shaft and as the box was already in the car, a real pita!! The fact that the pin's diameters are not the same as on the Ford version is immaterial as the length is sufficient. The fact that one pin has more "gap" in it will NOT cause loss of steering if the rag part fails, it will still make contact, but I'm guessing there would be a load of slop in the S/wheel and perhaps an "Oh shit" moment!!

Oder your Lares 201 from Rock Auto and save $$$$$

Geoff.

 

[Don C]

Paul113 came up with a way to resolve the small pin on the Lares joint

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-steering-coupler-problem-solved