Anyway, I have growing confidence that by the time I replace the studs, and rockers, get preload set, and replace the intake manifold gasket, I'll be in super good shape. Fingers crossed, but we definitely seem to be on the right path here.
I still may need to replace the power valve in the carb. Eddie believes he had a 8.5 in there which would really require 17Hg of vacuum to work optimally. I don't expect to get anywhere near that. If i got 14-15Hg and had a 6.5 Power Valve, I think I'd be happy.
I can comment from my own experience on power valves. My engine produces 18" Hg at 800 rpm idle ( 4 speed manual). That indicates the need for a 8.5 P/V, so I installed one and the car ran like crap. So, talking to "my guy" at the speed shop, he suggested that was the wrong move and to go back to the 6.5 P/V, which i did and it ran like a champ thereafter. I think it will actually depend one YOUR engine's needs, so be prepared to experiment. Buy a couple of extra primary bowl gaskets and bolt seals just to be prepared. You probably won't have to pull the carb to change it as long as you have room underneath to pull the bowl bolts. Lots of paper towel to soak up the gas.
Stanglover,
The higher the P/V the quicker it will open (I know you know this) I like to also look at the P/V restrictor size and see how much fuel it provides via wideband O2 monitor too high a P/V rating and too large of a P/V restriction is going to get ya over rich.
The old school rule of thumb is the P/V should give you 10 extra main jet sizes.
Boilermaster
