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Finally finished the front and rear suspension on the 72. TCP adjustable upper and lower control anrms, adjustable strut rods, sway bar, bump steer kit and Aldan coilovers. Rear is mid-eye springs, Aldan adjustable shocks, Addco sway bar, TCP spring plates.

Some finessing required. As they say, it’s not bolt on unless you need to do some fabrication.

Wilwoods are up next.

Rob
 

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Notice any difference with ethanol free?
My car ran out of gas while warming up.
I filled it out of the can and drove it into garage, not enough to see. Idles fine.
I am planning to change out carburetor gaskets and rebuilding carb this coming weekend. So will drive car right after that.
 
My car ran out of gas while warming up.
I filled it out of the can and drove it into garage, not enough to see. Idles fine.
I am planning to change out carburetor gaskets and rebuilding carb this coming weekend. So will drive car right after that.
OK. Report back with your ethanol free feedback please.
 
My car ran out of gas while warming up.
I filled it out of the can and drove it into garage, not enough to see. Idles fine.
I am planning to change out carburetor gaskets and rebuilding carb this coming weekend. So will drive car right after that.
Is this the Mustang you nabbed from North Carolina? Do you have it back on the road yet?
 
Finally got to fire the Stunt Cleveland and break the cam in today. Six minutes in and there was an oil leak which turned out to be the fitting for the oil gauge. Replaced it and the last 14 went fine, the timing isn't just right, but the scary part is over. New engine break ins are nerve wracking for me, so I didn't get any pics of the new engine at home. I'll get some tomorrow.
 
Here's the new engine in its' new home. Overlook the fuel line routing and temp wiring and missing a/c compressor. I really wanted a nice, clean engine bay. So I bought the Edelbrock hard line and filter kit and the fittings to run AN fittings and line from the fuel pump and some nice wire looms. Of course the regulator, filter, hard line is too long and hits the ignition solenoid, and the drivers side wire loom hits the power steering dipstick, so I ditched those plans to prioritize the engine break in. I didn't reinstall the a/c compressor because there's a leak somewhere and I want to go through that system on its’ own and get everything in good shape. I really wanted a cleaner engine bay, but this is what we have for the time being. I really wish that Hidden Wiring tutorial wasn't dead links because I think that would be useful.
 

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took the stang to a local shop that does classic stuff. did a full front suspension kit and shocks then to local ford dealer for alignment. didn't think the front end was that bad but shop said it was shot and orig 50 yrs old. in the end it was worth the almost 2 grand for everything. what a difference now.
 
Here's the new engine in its' new home. Overlook the fuel line routing and temp wiring and missing a/c compressor. I really wanted a nice, clean engine bay. So I bought the Edelbrock hard line and filter kit and the fittings to run AN fittings and line from the fuel pump and some nice wire looms. Of course the regulator, filter, hard line is too long and hits the ignition solenoid, and the drivers side wire loom hits the power steering dipstick, so I ditched those plans to prioritize the engine break in. I didn't reinstall the a/c compressor because there's a leak somewhere and I want to go through that system on its’ own and get everything in good shape. I really wanted a cleaner engine bay, but this is what we have for the time being. I really wish that Hidden Wiring tutorial wasn't dead links because I think that would be useful.
Looking good HeavyCoupe. Just a small suggestion: Tweak your throttle cable bracket a bit and install a shorter ball stud (on the carb throttle linkage) to get the cable more inline and parallel.
 
Looking good HeavyCoupe. Just a small suggestion: Tweak your throttle cable bracket a bit and install a shorter ball stud (on the carb throttle linkage) to get the cable more inline and parallel.
Thanks for the tip, I didn’t really think about being able to get a shorter one.That linkage definitely needs work. I had that carb on the old engine and everything was fine. When I put it on this one it “idled” at 2400 because it’s so out of whack. Worked out for the cam break in though. Now off to eBay for throttle stud assortment.
 
Thanks for the tip, I didn’t really think about being able to get a shorter one.That linkage definitely needs work. I had that carb on the old engine and everything was fine. When I put it on this one it “idled” at 2400 because it’s so out of whack. Worked out for the cam break in though. Now off to eBay for throttle stud assortment.
 

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Well this guy pulled out a brand new PS pump with squealing bearings. SMH. A guy needs a new hobby!!
 
I got the engine back in my car and hooked up. Still no transmission, so I cant drive it around. I'm going out to start it up and rev the motor a bit. Get it up to operating temperature and get some heat cycles in it to see if anything is going to leak on me.

 
Got some more work done on the engine build. Getting close. Also got the paint finished on the oil pan with a little added detail.
Looks like the CVF racing brackets and pulleys. I used a set of their v-belt stuff on my `69/302 car. Its pretty nice. If I need to buy pulleys or brackets for any of my other fords, they'll be my first choice.

I was thinking about getting their setup for my 351C car. If for no other reason than their v-belt system has multiple belts that go around the water pump. The factory pulleys on my car only have the power steering belt running the water pump. When you bust that belt, there may not be a big warning sign that your water pump is not running, until your engine is already getting too hot.
 
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