What did you do to your car today?

[Qcode351mach]

The aircraft stripper says to clean with mineral spirits and an abrasive pad.. I'm guessing to neutralize the chemical. I am going to go over the whole car with a DA again to get the spirits and small imperfections off, then use prepsol before I paint it.. I am using a self etching primer which is working great so far.

Humm I guess if that's what they say to do..In over 25 years of doing body work we NEVER used mineral sprints with chemical stripper & I never would. I wish you luck with that procedure & with self-etch primer over bare metal..Using self etch over bare metal would be ok IF you were in a shop..baked it on..Then applied your 2k within say 48 hours. ..But for bare metal it's not the preferred method irregardless of what some so called pros & paint reps will tell you. self etch offers NO PROTECTION what so ever.. It is porous..It's the kiss of death if the car is going to sit for any amount of time before being painted...Do a google search on self etch primer problems. Look at what the top notch builders use for their builds...I can't find any who use self etch on a complete. It's all epoxy. Just trying to steer you in the right direction..

 

[Qcode351mach]

Finished up the floor yesterday..going to wait till after the entire interior is media blasted sanded before welding back the seat pans.

 

[73vertproject]

Dang that looks nice, Scott. Good work!

 

[Qcode351mach]

Dang that looks nice, Scott. Good work!

Thanks Doc. ! Came out really nice, I'm pleased & glad that's it for structural work on this car !

 

[jiujitsuDave]

I started to tear apart my masterbath. Water damage and mold. All the money from the insurance company that I am saving by doing the work myself is buying my Trickflow heads and FPA headers

 

[marks73]

Worked on the interior firewall in preperation of the cowl repair.

 

[M Beauchamp]

Finished up the floor yesterday..going to wait till after the entire interior is media blasted sanded before welding back the seat pans.

that turned out real nice Q

 

[downwardspiral]

Humm I guess if that's what they say to do..In over 25 years of doing body work we NEVER used mineral sprints with chemical stripper & I never would. I wish you luck with that procedure & with self-etch primer over bare metal..Using self etch over bare metal would be ok IF you were in a shop..baked it on..Then applied your 2k within say 48 hours. ..But for bare metal it's not the preferred method irregardless of what some so called pros & paint reps will tell you. self etch offers NO PROTECTION what so ever.. It is porous..It's the kiss of death if the car is going to sit for any amount of time before being painted...Do a google search on self etch primer problems. Look at what the top notch builders use for their builds...I can't find any who use self etch on a complete. It's all epoxy. Just trying to steer you in the right direction..

I appreciate the advice.. I really just like the color of it lol. the primer is very easy to take off, and it will probably all come off when its time to paint the car for real.. The car sits in a garage and doesnt see rain, so it shouldnt rust up too bad. I just want to get all the bondo and layers of paint off the car so its easier down the road. I am using rattle cans right now so I am kind of limited as to what I can use, once I get a compressor I'll pick up some epoxy primer and get it done the right way.

The stripper made easy work of getting the paint off though, I stripped the fenders and starting sanding today..

 

[Mister 4x4]

Got the 'gap' patch and trunk pan in there today. Still gotta weld it to the frame rails, but that's for tomorrow. Also attempted to fabricate the front strap (gas tank) bracket, but the sheet metal I got was too thick to bend without a brake. So, after messing up a perfectly good piece of $10 sheet metal, I'm going to have the metal shop cut and bend it for me next week sometime. The 'gap' patch was thinner gauge and bent just fine for my purposes - turned out pretty good, I think (good enough, anyway).

Here's the frame rails painted up with some Rust Bullet Black Shell I STILL have left over from the front clip. Figured I'd get the insides of the frame rails and cross member since I'll never be seeing them again.

Here's the pan and 'gap' patch nailed down after lots of measuring and lining up.

And finally, a not-so-good shot of the 'gap' patch in-place. There's going to be a big ol' box with some subs riding on top of it above the trunk carpet, so it came out just fine, IMHO.

Finished up the floor yesterday..going to wait till after the entire interior is media blasted sanded before welding back the seat pans.

AWESOME! Man, I wish I had your skills and patience... but I'm happy with 'advice.'

 

[Qcode351mach]

AWESOME! Man, I wish I had your skills and patience... but I'm happy with 'advice.'

E..Thanks for the compliment ! You should be proud of the work & job youv'e done..You had an open mind, great attitude & took MY advice..Look at what you acomplished ! ::goodjob::

 

[Steven Harris]

Finished up the floor yesterday..going to wait till after the entire interior is media blasted sanded before welding back the seat pans.

Looks very good. Well done.

Got the 'gap' patch and trunk pan in there today.

Looking real good. Great tenacity on bringing the car back from the grip of death.

 

[downwardspiral]

qcode.. you are going to make me buy a compressor lol, now I'm thinking about the primer thing.. I'm going to get one eventually anyway.. I'll just put it on my 0% credit card I just paid off lol, I did it with the welder and I dont regret that.

 

[Qcode351mach]

qcode.. you are going to make me buy a compressor lol, now I'm thinking about the primer thing.. I'm going to get one eventually anyway.. I'll just put it on my 0% credit card I just paid off lol, I did it with the welder and I dont regret that.

Thats the smart thing to do ! Spend your money once & do the job once. You can can get a pretty decent compressor at harbor freight CHEAP & your never ever going to get the correct results from rattle cans..Plus rattle cans are expensive !!!

 

[marks73]

Finally got to the interior firewall for cleaning and sanding. Then I put the DS pan in place and screwed it down for fit. Thank god Qcode351 told me to leave 2 inches extra!! By the time I got it level I lost 3/4 of an inch from where I first marked it on the hump side. I'd have been screwed Thanks man! :udaman:

 

[M Beauchamp]

Nice Mark

So are you going to attempt Q's butt welded floor pan?

 

[mach71351c]

Looks good Mark.

 

[sm3570]

Continued stripping off trim and whatnot, getting ready for paint. Have to remove the windshield, need to get some piano wire or something for that job. After that I have to remove the front bumper and grill, then it should be ready for body work.

 

[marks73]

Nice Mark

So are you going to attempt Q's butt welded floor pan?

Well partially. going to butt weld the sides but am going to try Q's deal at the front and rear because he warned me about getting into the front torque box. So I only cut the floor out to the joint at the front firewall.

 

[downwardspiral]

qcode.. you are going to make me buy a compressor lol, now I'm thinking about the primer thing.. I'm going to get one eventually anyway.. I'll just put it on my 0% credit card I just paid off lol, I did it with the welder and I dont regret that.

Thats the smart thing to do ! Spend your money once & do the job once. You can can get a pretty decent compressor at harbor freight CHEAP & your never ever going to get the correct results from rattle cans..Plus rattle cans are expensive !!!

Do you have any experience with the harbor freight ones? They seem to get decent reviews.. I see they have a 3.5HP 60 gallon for $500 or so, which seems like a great deal, and should be enough for what I am looking to do with it.

 

[Mister 4x4]

No new pictures, but I got the trunk pan welded down [finished], made a small patch for the right rear torque box, cleaned the remaining areas of the rear frame rails, and shot some undercoating on the bottom of the floor pans, tranny/driveshaft tunnel, and intermediate pans. Now it's all ready to weld in the Global West subframe connectors my wife got me for Valentine's Day. That's for next weekend, along with Rust Bullet for the trunk pan, and cutting off one of the quarter panels.