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C6 conversion to Toploader 4 speed


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I welded it because I was not able to get the clips in. I also wanted to weld it just in case. It needs just a few tacks. I didn't replace the brake pedal since I kept the AT pedal. I just cut the metal pad to fit the shorter rubber pad.

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I welded it because I was not able to get the clips in. I also wanted to weld it just in case. It needs just a few tacks. I didn't replace the brake pedal since I kept the AT pedal. I just cut the metal pad to fit the shorter rubber pad.

Thanks Tony  ::thumb::

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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Sorry it took me a while to get here but these are the pictures I promised.https://imgbb.com/upload?mode=mybb&code=hotlink&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.7173mustangs.com%2Fthread-c6-conversion-to-toploader-4-speed%3Fpage%3D3

pictures were too big so I took them out. :goodpost:

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Sorry it took me a while to get here but these are the pictures I promised.https://imgbb.com/upload?mode=mybb&code=hotlink&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.7173mustangs.com%2Fthread-c6-conversion-to-toploader-4-speed%3Fpage%3D3

Try this again maybe!IMG-0025.jpg

 

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pictures were too big so I took them out. :goodpost:

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I know I won't be using the clutch dish, pressure plate or bearings. I'll be buying new parts. The transmissions is in storage at the moment. All the parts shown above (except cable conversion) are from my dad's 73 that ran 10s in the quarter before he died in the 80s. Most of the parts that I am reusing are from the same drive line so all I have to do is reassemble.

pictures were too big so I took them out. :goodpost:

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The bellhousing looks like a Lakewood 15200 ? Funny, I grab one when I found the Toploader a few weeks ago :)

 

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Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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this will be great!! I think the only diffrence btween our builds is, you are going with the all original mechanical clutch linkage, and i am going with the cable set up from MDL. Should be intresting!!!!!!!!

 

pictures were too big so I took them out. :goodpost:

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  • 1 year later...

After a "few" weeks, some updates.

The pedal assembly is in place, I finally drilled the clutch pedal axle to insert a beta pin (a washer between the bearing and the pin). The steering column is still out and the brake booster too.

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Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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It's not funny when all goes right. Brake booster is in place, so I connect it to the brake pedal, but it's now too close to the firewall. I thought was the angle of the pedal that was not the same as the automatic brake one, but they are the same. The lenght of the booster rod is also the same. Any idea ?

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Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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I sort of got into this one late. If I were you I would go to a W.C. World Class T-5 and not go with the toploader. I am gathering parts to do a swap in a 1973 Grande. I got the WC t-5 our of a 1995 GT Mustang I think is last year for the 302 after that 4.6 cammer so bell housing is different.
I got the Bell housing, flywheel that I cannot use off 302 going on a 351, pressure plate, clutch, transmission, and Hurst short throw shifter for $550 USD. The later T-5 have a better steel in the gears and better syncronizers. With the zero end play tapered bearings and the automatic transmission fluid they can take more torque than a toploader. Gives you and over drive 5 th. gear. Lots are doing the swap and have not seen a post of anyone breaking one.
I cannot afford to go buy the racing versions they sell in 5 and 6 speed. I have two toploaders here so I chose the T-5 over them.
I have a 1984 mustang with a T-5 and a 1985 SVO mustang with T-5 and they lived through two teenage drivers and all I could toss at them.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I continue with the Toploader and the original Zbar link. Not easy here to find trannies as in the US. My rear end is 3.25 and the Toploader a wide ratio, won't be so bad to drive. A fifth gear would be appreciated, but...

Need now to find out where I messed up to get the brake pedal too close to the firewall.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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Manu, 

nice to hear from you again :thumb:

The only two things I could imagine that the upper angle point of the brake pedal is at a different position and/or the brake booster rod isn't fully retracted backwards. Did you have a check on the proper function of the booster?  

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Posted (edited)

Hi Tim, nice to read you too :)

Well, the booster is ok, it's a new one, and the rod is at the same length as the previous one, the pedal has the same angle as the one I replaced. The only thing I did, is to install this kit from Scott Drake with the bearings, my guess is that the angle changed because of this kit, I can't stop thinking from where it could be. Till now for me it's a mystery, but I have to find out... It's for sure something easy and I don't "see" it, but what.

Edited by Manu Mach1

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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22 minutes ago, Manu Mach1 said:

Hi Tim, nice to read you too :)

Well, the booster is ok, it's a new one, and the rod is at the same length as the previous one, the pedal has the same angle as the one I replaced. The only thing I did, is to install this kit from Scott Drake with the bearings, my guess is that the angle changed because of this kit, I can't stop thinking from where it could be. Till now for me it's a mystery, but I have to find out... It's for sure something easy and I don't "see" it, but what.

I do not want to blame anybody I do not know personally but if that's the only thing you have changed and all other measurements are totally right I would say it's Scott Drake :biggrin:

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Hmm, I looked at the pictures again... 

Could it be that the cotter pin 

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perhaps touches anything under the column so that the pedal do not retract fully towards the drivers seat? 

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Posted (edited)

Non monsieur, that pin touch nothing, but thanks to dig with me :)

Next weekend I will remove the Scott Drake kit and try with the automatic brake pedal. The supports holes are oblong, it could be this, maybe...

Edited by Manu Mach1
  • Fist Bump 1

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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 Manu, let me chime in here as I try to understand what's going on. First the Scott Drake bearing kit is installed on the CLUTCH shaft, not the brake. That being the case, that has nothing to do with the brake pedal staying in the wrong position. I'm trying to remember back a few years now, to when I added the booster to my non-power brake system. At that time, I also added a bearing kit to mine. I used Mustang Steve's kit, not Scott Drake. If it were the clutch pedal sticking, I would say it's binding due to the bearings not being 100% parallel because of the draft angle in the bracket itself. As it's the brake pedal that's sticking, that has nothing to do with it. On the bracket, there are two holes, one for the clutch shaft and one for the brake pedal bolt, did you get these switched around? I can't think how or why this would happen, but worth a thought. Did you just over tighten the brake pedal bolt causing the bracket to pinch against the pedal arm? Did the pedal arm swing freely before you attached the brake push rod? Did the push rod align with the pedal arm pin with the pedal arm in the correct position? If it all checks out, check your booster. It may be stuck in the down (in) position if the master cylinder is not yet on.

I'd just go back and check everything. Good luck.

 

 

 

  • Like 2

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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Posted (edited)

"First the Scott Drake bearing kit is installed on the CLUTCH shaft, not the brake"

You just gave me the answer :thumb: I inserted the clutch pedal through the brake one, so the brake pedal is not on its position, how could I do this mistake! It's why on one of my pics the brake pedal is lower than the clutch one.

But everything comes together very easely, it's why I didn't imagine make a wrong assembly.

I have to wait friday to setup all correctly :(

 

Edited by Manu Mach1
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Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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7 hours ago, Manu Mach1 said:

"First the Scott Drake bearing kit is installed on the CLUTCH shaft, not the brake"

You just gave me the answer :thumb: I inserted the clutch pedal through the brake one, so the brake pedal is not on its position, how could I do this mistake! It's why on one of my pics the brake pedal is lower than the clutch one.

But everything comes together very easely, it's why I didn't imagine make a wrong assembly.

I have to wait friday to setup all correctly :(

 

No criticism here, glad that help you. Mine of course was  a manual to start with, so I was unlikely to make an error, but I can easily see how it could happen. On the brake, you likely won't get proper travel until the master cylinder is on and the system is complete with brake fluid. 

Let us know how it goes. All the best,

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Geoff.

 I learn something new every day!

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It's done!

All is in place, was not so easy, because the worth thing is to be a snake to connect all things in horizontal position with not much room under the dash board. But to me was the not easiest part to do, not the work, but all different parts needed to do the swap how it need to be done.

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Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

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