What is the right black out hood paint?

[machattack]

I thought I saw a thread on this subject but cant find it now.  Oh Well, so...............what is the correct shade and sheen of black for the blackout hood? I wanna get it painted right the first time. I also assume the rear deck spoiler is the same code paint? 

Thank you 

 

[Kilgon]

Good question.  I read various articles on what  was the original from the factory to the closet you could come to it.  The attach link has info on the paint and the areas and  dimensions for everything.  Paint Info (50megs.com)  I'm for sure some of the others on here will have info also as what  to use.

I used Sem Hot Rod Black HR010 Kit - it is a 1 Quart kit which is enough to do all the blackout on the car.  

 

[turtle5353]

Good question.  I read various articles on what  was the original from the factory to the closet you could come to it.  The attach link has info on the paint and the areas and  dimensions for everything.  Paint Info (50megs.com)  I'm for sure some of the others on here will have info also as what  to use.

I used Sem Hot Rod Black HR010 Kit - it is a 1 Quart kit which is enough to do all the blackout on the car.  

+1 on The Sem hot rod black.   I used it and its seems to be really nice paint.  

 

[Stanglover]

+1 on The Sem hot rod black.   I used it and its seems to be really nice paint.  

 That's what I used on mine too. It's standing up really well after 7 years now. There is (or was) a Hot-Rod clear coat for it as well. I did not use it, but I think it would have been beneficial except for the added thickness at the hood edges.

Here's the nitty-gritty, i.e. factory dimensions.

https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/32908-measurments-for-hood-black-out/?do=findComment&comment=338133

 

[machattack]

Thanks Guys, appreciated!! 

Stanglover.........David sent me the measurements some time ago and the painter does have those. Thanks  to both of you! 

Rod and Sally's mustang

 

[mach71351c]

I as well did SEM hot rod black. I believe the original black is more flat. 

 

[machattack]

So........... is this also the right color and sheen for the rocker panels and rear spoiler?   :classic_rolleyes:   so many questions.

Thanks

 

[mach71351c]

I did the rocker panels the same time as the hood'  I used SEM trim black spray bomb on the spoiler. Did tail lights and rear trim in trim black. I would say the trim black sheen is a little more flat.

 

[Stanglover]

So........... is this also the right color and sheen for the rocker panels and rear spoiler?   :classic_rolleyes:   so many questions.

Thanks

Yes. If you do one part, do it all, but be mindful of how much you use. 1 quart will do it all if not wasted. If you have to go buy another kit it gets expensive plus when mixed, the unused portion will be junk.

 

[rodgeydodge]

Hello all,
when I restored my 1973 Mach 1, I gave my painter the 1971-73 MACH I HOOD PAINT STENCIL KIT. SKU: M1SK from California Mustang.
I had it done in black gloss, so I would have no polishing problems. I am happy with it even though I know that they never came in gloss.
Cheers, Roger (Australia)

 

[kevken1959]

Does anyone have a picture of the hood blackout painted with the SEM HR010 Hot Rod Black kit and then clear coated with the SEM HRC40 Hot Rod Clear kit? I know both kits are advertised as matte finish, but I'm hoping the clear gives a little more shine to the finish. I want to use the gloss black side stripes offered by Graphic Express on my Lime 71 429CJ Mach I, and I'm looking for a slightly glossier finish than what the SEM black provides in order for the hood to match the side stripes. Does anyone have any ideas for what I could use? I don't want a high gloss finish. If I did I would have painted the black and then clear coated over the whole car. That's what the painter wanted to do. I'm also concerned all that paint will leave a pretty thick ridge you and feel with your finger. P.S., the light in the booth does not do the color justice, and this was before the car was buffed.
View attachment IMG-2129.mov
Thanks!

 

[Stanglover]

Kevin,
My car has the SEM Hot-Rod Black without clear coat. I do have the SEM HRC 40 kit, but my painter didn't want to use it for the same reason, too much edge thickness. Sorry I can't help on the sheen question.
But, I have a question; why? Why do you want a higher gloss than "factory"?
If that car is anywhere near being a correct 429CJ ( I hope it is) then going off script could kill the value. If it's a clone, then whatever works for you I guess.
I also notice the floor pan is painted body color and that as you know is not correct, but your car, your way.
You know that is my dream car and color, so forgive me if I'm a bit harsh on you,
Here's a pic of my hood. NOTE that the front edge is wrong. That was a misunderstanding with my painter and was on me. It ought to be 2" from the trim piece, not the hood edge ( some will say 1 7/8"). Mine is 3" back because I told the guy 2" from the hood edge, meaning with the trim on.

 

[timachone]

Kevin,

I did it in a semi gloss black!

Cheers,

Tim

 

[kevken1959]

Kevin,
My car has the SEM Hot-Rod Black without clear coat. I do have the SEM HRC 40 kit, but my painter didn't want to use it for the same reason, too much edge thickness. Sorry I can't help on the sheen question.
But, I have a question; why? Why do you want a higher gloss than "factory"?
If that car is anywhere near being a correct 429CJ ( I hope it is) then going off script could kill the value. If it's a clone, then whatever works for you I guess.
I also notice the floor pan is painted body color and that as you know is not correct, but your car, your way.
You know that is my dream car and color, so forgive me if I'm a bit harsh on you,
Here's a pic of my hood. NOTE that the front edge is wrong. That was a misunderstanding with my painter and was on me. It ought to be 2" from the trim piece, not the hood edge ( some will say 1 7/8"). Mine is 3" back because I told the guy 2" from the hood edge, meaning with the trim o

Kevin,

I did it in a semi gloss black!

Cheers,

Tim

Very nice Tim. What is the exact type paint used? Clear coat or not? Thanks!

Kevin,
My car has the SEM Hot-Rod Black without clear coat. I do have the SEM HRC 40 kit, but my painter didn't want to use it for the same reason, too much edge thickness. Sorry I can't help on the sheen question.
But, I have a question; why? Why do you want a higher gloss than "factory"?
If that car is anywhere near being a correct 429CJ ( I hope it is) then going off script could kill the value. If it's a clone, then whatever works for you I guess.
I also notice the floor pan is painted body color and that as you know is not correct, but your car, your way.
You know that is my dream car and color, so forgive me if I'm a bit harsh on you,
Here's a pic of my hood. NOTE that the front edge is wrong. That was a misunderstanding with my painter and was on me. It ought to be 2" from the trim piece, not the hood edge ( some will say 1 7/8"). Mine is 3" back because I told the guy 2" from the hood edge, meaning with the trim on.

Hi Geoff. The car is a real 429CJ, C code. It did not come with Ram Air, but it has just about every other factory option. I bought it as a roller, so the engine numbers don't match. It was also a dark green car, not my favorite color. I have like four other cars that color that I am restoring and will go back with the dark green on those cars, more than likely. The color is a special mix "Grabber Lime" on steroids! I just think that the color deserves stripes and hood blackout just a little bit glossier than factory. I would never do extremely high gloss. I have a low mileage 73 Copper convertible that still has the factory paint and hood patch, so getting the dimensions right should not be a problem. Again, I am still looking for advice on a mix that will work. Thanks

 

[Stanglover]

Very nice Tim. What is the exact type paint used? Clear coat or not? Thanks!

Hi Geoff. The car is a real 429CJ, C code. It did not come with Ram Air, but it has just about every other factory option. I bought it as a roller, so the engine numbers don't match. It was also a dark green car, not my favorite color. I have like four other cars that color that I am restoring and will go back with the dark green on those cars, more than likely. The color is a special mix "Grabber Lime" on steroids! I just think that the color deserves stripes and hood blackout just a little bit glossier than factory. I would never do extremely high gloss. I have a low mileage 73 Copper convertible that still has the factory paint and hood patch, so getting the dimensions right should not be a problem. Again, I am still looking for advice on a mix that will work. ThanksView attachment 66990View attachment 66991View attachment 66991View attachment 66992

Hi Kevin,
Wow, that was some shopping list on that car, but what a pity the original order was not for a J code, I mean it's got everything but the kitchen sink so to speak.
As for color, I do agree the original Grabber Lime was a bit too washy looking and needed some brightening up. So, as you explain the car was not a numbers car anyway, bringing it back the way you have, will look awesome. As for blackout trim, as long as it's not gloss black. As far as I'm concerned, that just looks wrong.
I have a friend (and fellow member) who is working on a Mach 1 and made a very similar choice with color selection. He too 'brightened' up the Grabber Lime and I think it too looks awesome from the photos I've seen of it.
Looking forward to seeing this one completed soon.
Geoff.

 

[timachone]

Very nice Tim. What is the exact type paint used? Clear coat or not? Thanks!

Hi Geoff. The car is a real 429CJ, C code. It did not come with Ram Air, but it has just about every other factory option. I bought it as a roller, so the engine numbers don't match. It was also a dark green car, not my favorite color. I have like four other cars that color that I am restoring and will go back with the dark green on those cars, more than likely. The color is a special mix "Grabber Lime" on steroids! I just think that the color deserves stripes and hood blackout just a little bit glossier than factory. I would never do extremely high gloss. I have a low mileage 73 Copper convertible that still has the factory paint and hood patch, so getting the dimensions right should not be a problem. Again, I am still looking for advice on a mix that will work. ThanksView attachment 66990View attachment 66991View attachment 66991View attachment 66992

Kevin,

it is a simple 2 components single stage black paint color in semi/low gloss without clear coat. I did the body color first, then applied the black paint with a paint mask like original. It is a very smooth surface and will clean up fine when needed. It has just about the right low shine as needed for the OEM look.

Tim

 

[69 Rustang]

If you want a shinier finish and really want to apply clear over the blackout, do not use Hot Rod black, just use a regular black basecoat and then clear it with clearcoat. With PPG’s clear you can add flattening agents to select the level of gloss you desire. There are color and gloss level tools available to select the right amount of flattener. I would not use the Hot Rod Black underneath because it was designed as a single stage and will yield a higher mail build than a basecoat would, which would lead to a higher ‘edge’ or ‘lip’ where your blackout meets the green due to high mils of black and clear buildup.

 

[kevken1959]

Hi Kevin,
Wow, that was some shopping list on that car, but what a pity the original order was not for a J code, I mean it's got everything but the kitchen sink so to speak.
As for color, I do agree the original Grabber Lime was a bit too washy looking and needed some brightening up. So, as you explain the car was not a numbers car anyway, bringing it back the way you have, will look awesome. As for blackout trim, as long as it's not gloss black. As far as I'm concerned, that just looks wrong.
I have a friend (and fellow member) who is working on a Mach 1 and made a very similar choice with color selection. He too 'brightened' up the Grabber Lime and I think it too looks awesome from the photos I've seen of it.
Looking forward to seeing this one completed soon.
Geoff

So here's another idea. Apparently the lime car was identical to the James Bond car. No one talks about it, but the Bond car had to be a "C" code non ram air car. The Bond car is iconic and looks good without the hood patch or stripes. I did add the hood locks, and I can't undo that, but I think they only add to the looks of the car. Maybe I should reinstall the side moldings and ditch the hood patch and stripes. That sure would make my life a lot easier. What do you and the other members think?

 

[kevken1959]

If you want a shinier finish and really want to apply clear over the blackout, do not use Hot Rod black, just use a regular black basecoat and then clear it with clearcoat. With PPG’s clear you can add flattening agents to select the level of gloss you desire. There are color and gloss level tools available to select the right amount of flattener. I would not use the Hot Rod Black underneath because it was designed as a single stage and will yield a higher mail build than a basecoat would, which would lead to a higher ‘edge’ or ‘lip’ where your blackout meets the green due to high mils of black and clear buildup.

Thanks Rustang!

 

[kevken1959]

Kevin,

it is a simple 2 components single stage black paint color in semi/low gloss without clear coat. I did the body color first, then applied the black paint with a paint mask like original. It is a very smooth surface and will clean up fine when needed. It has just about the right low shine as needed for the OEM look.

Tim

Hey Tim. Your choice sounds a lot like the SEM Hot-Rod Black. What do you think the difference might be?