351 4v ( 408 and TKX )

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Looks like you are making great progress. With quality attention to detail. Great work. Spent the past several minutes getting myself back up to speed on your posts. Looks great! Something to be proud of for sure.

 
Looks like you are making great progress.  With quality attention to detail.  Great work.  Spent the past several minutes getting myself back up to speed on your posts.  Looks great!  Something to be proud of for sure.
Thanks Brian. Truly appreciate you checking out my build.

 
Finished up the front suspension this weekend. Detailed and stalled the steering linkage. I went with a Wilwood kit even though my car was a disc brake car. The Wilwood kit seems like a good value for what you get. Are they better than the stock discs who knows. The only mod was the spindles had to be drilled and taped for the caliper brackets. 

Nine inch and rear suspension is next.
I have the same kit to install for the front brakes. How big of a PITA was it to drill and tap the spindle while on the car? What are you using there for a guide in the pic of the thread tap?

 
Finished up the front suspension this weekend. Detailed and stalled the steering linkage. I went with a Wilwood kit even though my car was a disc brake car. The Wilwood kit seems like a good value for what you get. Are they better than the stock discs who knows. The only mod was the spindles had to be drilled and taped for the caliper brackets. 

Nine inch and rear suspension is next.
I have the same kit to install for the front brakes. How big of a PITA was it to drill and tap the spindle while on the car? What are you using there for a guide in the pic of the thread tap?
Hey Jason, It wasn't bad at all. I used a good bit and cutting oil. My biggest concern was drilling it straight. The guide was tab cut off a adapter plate to bolt a 302 to a VW bus trans.

Mike

 
WOW!!!!  This thread is encouraging and motivating.  GREAT JOB!!!!

For the black on the skirt is it flat black or gloss?  Are you doing flat black on the hood?

What paint system did you go with?  Brand, primer, etc?

::thumb::

 
WOW!!!!  This thread is encouraging and motivating.  GREAT JOB!!!!

For the black on the skirt is it flat black or gloss?  Are you doing flat black on the hood?

What paint system did you go with?  Brand, primer, etc?

::thumb::
Used Ditzler hot rod black by PPG on the hood and lower body. Just like the sheen of the hot rod black.  Primer, shop line. Paint and clear PPG.

Thanks.

IMG_2002.JPG

 
Last edited by a moderator:
SWEET!

I have no other words because as usual, I'm struck dumb by the awesomeness in your pictures.  Well Done, Brutha! ::thumb::

 
Today I headed out back. I pulled the N case 3.50 T loc that I install back in 95 when I first got the car. I'll tell you what I forgot what a heavy Sum Beach it is. After hitting it with the wire wheel I found the pinon carrier is broke.  :-/  The plan is to go threw it and add 3.70s gears.

IMG_2283.JPG

IMG_2286.JPG

IMG_2290.JPG

IMG_2292.JPG

IMG_2302.JPG

IMG_2303.JPG

 
Mike, looks like things are coming along well. I see you're going with 3.70 gears, that's what I ended up installing in mine. What are you doing with the transmission, 4 speed, auto or auto and? Ryan

 
Mike, looks like things are coming along well.  I see you're going with 3.70 gears, that's  what I ended up installing in mine. What are you doing  with the transmission,  4 speed, auto or auto and?  Ryan
 The car was a FMX. My original plan was to use the C6 from my 72 Mach 1 parts car and put a Gear vendor behind that. After thinking about the $$$ to put that all together I would be at Tremec money maybe more. And the fun factor of the 3rd pedal decision maid 5 speed it is. I'm still on the fence about maybe going with 3.89s. Pretty sure going with 3.70s to be safe.

 
You can weld that broken dog ear back on with no issues.  I had a transfer case adapter on my Jeep crack-off a similar piece - had it welded back together, cleaned-up & re-bored, and it's been good since the '90s.   ::thumb::

 
You can weld that broken dog ear back on with no issues.  I had a transfer case adapter on my Jeep crack-off a similar piece - had it welded back together, cleaned-up & re-bored, and it's been good since the '90s.   ::thumb::
 That is a thought of mine Eric. May just buy the updated Daytona style.

 
That sucks Mike! But the good thing is that it's probably salvageable. I wouldn't be afraid to weld that back together. Just clean it up good with a grinder and V out the groove you want to weld. Put some heat to it with a torch, then weld it up. Grind the weld down and no one will ever know it was broke. Shouldn't have to worry about it leaking since the sealing surface is above that bolt hole.

 
That sucks Mike! But the good thing is that it's probably salvageable.  I wouldn't be afraid to weld that back together. Just clean it up good with a grinder and V out the groove you want to weld. Put some heat to it with a torch, then weld it up. Grind the weld down and no one will ever know it was broke. Shouldn't have to worry about it leaking since the sealing surface is above that bolt hole.
Never thought about heating it with a torch first.  :chin:

 
Probably has something to do with making sure the cast metal being heated is better for taking the welds, or something along those lines.   :whistling:

Look at me... watching Forged In Fire is making me think I actually know something about metal work and stuff.   lollerz

 
I takes the weld better. But its mainly to get any moisture out of the porous cast metal. Don't have to get it cherry red or anything but you do want to get some good heat into it.

 
Back
Top