73 H code Convertible Build

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YellowHorse

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2022
Messages
216
Reaction score
206
Location
Michigan, Muskegon
My Car
73 Convertible, c6, yellow
351-2v, power top, power windows.
I picked up my convertible late summer 2022. Decided instead of rebuilding new salvage vehicles (for my own use), it's time to invest my work into something that will hold value, with how much time I spend perfecting things.

Car has original 351c2v with C6 transmission and all original premium interior. Previous owner replaced floor boards, repaired rust undercarriage sealed the bottom and replaced suspension and brake lines. Also rebuilt heads.
I have receipts which goes back to original owner, lawyer in Detroit.

My first task is to refresh interior (keep all original aside from carpet) then move onto wheels, alignment of ther grill.and bumper, engine leaks. Interior work includes repaint of the dash plastics, repair steering wheel and repair of padding under original upholstery.

I am originally from Ukraine, so dont mind bunch of incorrect English.
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Plain and simple, I gotta say that a yellow and black Mustang convertible is a show stopper! I'm glad you are going to do a build thread so we can enjoy it too! I can't wait to see more, I'll be following...
 
Curently working on passenger seat frame repair, next rear seat new padding (burlap, 1" foam and cotton)20230212_153009.jpg
 

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Plain and simple, I gotta say that a yellow and black Mustang convertible is a show stopper! I'm glad you are going to do a build thread so we can enjoy it too! I can't wait to see more, I'll be following...
Yep, yellow does pop. Original color is yellow; car has dark gray center stripe with light yellow flake.
Also, I have only 1 wheelresrored, will be posting here my work on other wheels incase others will want to use my proces. Project for late spring so I can work outside.
First picture is before restoring. Wheel was polished with a powerball, but had bunch of black pits in the aluminum. They stood out more so after polishing, this pushed me to send off face material untill pit free. Blue is protective tape over black stripe.

Second picture sanded and polished wheel. Still have to put in OEM lug nuts and repaint black stripe (or put in vinul pinstripe).
 

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Yep, yellow does pop. Original color is yellow; car has dark gray center stripe with light yellow flake.
Also, I have only 1 wheelresrored, will be posting here my work on other wheels incase others will want to use my proces. Project for late spring so I can work outside.
First picture is before restoring. Wheel was polished with a powerball, but had bunch of black pits in the aluminum. They stood out more so after polishing, this pushed me to send off face material untill pit free. Blue is protective tape over black stripe.

Second picture sanded and polished wheel. Still have to put in OEM lug nuts and repaint black stripe (or put in vinul pinstripe).
Nice car! Original Decor group with the lower blackout and upper rocker moldings. Those moldings pieces are very hard to find and the last time I looked they are not reproduced. Furthermore, If I am not mistaken, the very front piece over the valance is unique to the 73 model year, because of the Fender/Vanance. Bumper redesign.

Here is a link to my 73 very build project I completed about 5 years ago...
https://7173mustangs.com/threads/73-convertible-restoration-project.28482/
Anyway, good luck with your build and nice work on those 73-year-only Aluminum Slot Wheels. I know how much work it takes to get them looking new again. I don't get on the site as much as I once did, but just reach out, if I can help in any way.
 
I picked up my convertible late summer 2022. Decided instead of rebuilding new salvage vehicles (for my own use), it's time to invest my work into something that will hold value, with how much time I spend perfecting things.

Car has original 351c2v with C6 transmission and all original premium interior. Previous owner replaced floor boards, repaired rust undercarriage sealed the bottom and replaced suspension and brake lines. Also rebuilt heads.
I have receipts which goes back to original owner, lawyer in Detroit.

My first task is to refresh interior (keep all original aside from carpet) then move onto wheels, alignment of ther grill.and bumper, engine leaks. Interior work includes repaint of the dash plastics, repair steering wheel and repair of padding under original upholstery.

I am originally from Ukraine, so dont mind bunch of incorrect English.
View attachment 73777View attachment 73778View attachment 73793
Nice option list! And my favorite wheels, too.
 
Picked up my repaired seat cushion from upholstery shop.
Planned to get rear seat skinned but instead worked on removing broken sparkplug in my 3.5 TT explorer
 

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Took apholstry off the back seat to clean up frame and put in new padding (something I still have to come up with).
Fortunately wires and supporting mash are in good condition, only need padding - maybe 1" foam and cotton.
 

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Finaly got my passenger seat frame welded.
 

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Finally had opportunity to rustproof and pain my seat frame. Yes, I will put metal tag on the seat spring when fully dry.
 

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Finally had opportunity to rustproof and pain my seat frame. Yes, I will put metal tag on the seat spring when fully dry.
I recommend reinforcing the back corners. They often are cracked or will crack in time. I use a 1 1/2" thick washer and weld from the underside in each rounded rear "corners". Nothing is worse than having to take the seat apart again after it's done and back in the car.
 
I recommend reinforcing the back corners. They often are cracked or will crack in time. I use a 1 1/2" thick washer and weld from the underside in each rounded rear "corners". Nothing is worse than having to take the seat apart again after it's done and back in the car.
Good idea. This one tig already welded and painted, so will assemble as is.
Driver side is next, will do more reinforcement there.
 
Scrubed rust off my rear seat frames, bought new padding and painted frames with rustoleum enamel.
 

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Looks good, you are making great progress thru some tedious but very important projects. BTW - I love the slotted mags and the red pony wheel caps... Congrats on that score. (y)
Thanks, these must have not been used much. Original (non ford preplacement) center caps with 5 bolt holes and none of the bolts are broken off. Replacement Ford Pat's had 3 bolt holes in center caps, which is great when your wheels have broken bolts. I have 4 NOS replacement part for the wheels on the car, which do have broken bolts. $500 with tires. 1683505217249248036488766783574.jpg
 
Planning to reuse my original upholstery, had it in the sun all day to get some stink out (vinyl side was down) .
Probably will use deodorizer spray. Spray completely removed sigaret smoke from Jeeep softop, so should do the job on fabric/foam.

Washed wire/plasticky mash which straches over seat springs, with some cleaned that contains bleach (will kill bacteria/stinch).
 

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Scrubed rust off my rear seat frames, bought new padding and painted frames with rustoleum enamel.
Looks good, have you ever tried a rust converter? I soak my parts that have rust on them in the converter for 8-24 hours and they rust is completely converter back into metal so there is no chance of it spreading when I coat the parts in Por15.
 
Planning to reuse my original upholstery, had it in the sun all day to get some stink out (vinyl side was down) .
Probably will use deodorizer spray. Spray completely removed sigaret smoke from Jeeep softop, so should do the job on fabric/foam.

Washed wire/plasticky mash which straches over seat springs, with some cleaned that contains bleach (will kill bacteria/stinch).
Let us know how this turns out. I have the seats that were sitting in a car that had moisture in it so they smell moldy. I would love to know the best method for cleaning. I am wondering if I should take them apart and replace the foam?
 

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